AFTER a hectic round highlighting hot spots, I opted for some cosseting at Dash: that tucked-away treasure overlooking the Waterfront at the 5-star Queen Victoria boutique hotel (third in the Tripadvisor 2014 awards in the Top 25 SA Hotels category).
It was an evening of surprises. As the 36-seater restaurant, flowing smoothly from the royal purple bar area, combines modernity with comfort, showcasing striking art from the next-door Everard Read Gallery, I had thought the name must carry connotations of “cutting a dash”.
Instead, it has charming historical associations. Dash was Queen Victoria’s King Charles spaniel, her closest companion during her lonely childhood. (Photographs of the appealing little dog are available and could perhaps be used on the menu.)
Another misconception was soon shattered. Expecting the sound of foreign accents as visitors made the most of our traveller-friendly currency, I found the welcoming venue dominated by a happy wedding party, still in festive finery, and injecting a note of romance into the streamlined surroundings.
We toasted them in a flute of bubbly from the well-chosen winelist while consulting the frequently-changing menu. Don’t hesitate to ask for advice: service is exceptional, blending knowledge and enthusiasm. And be warned: this is not conventional fare. You’ll be offered dishes with a tastebud-arresting Asian slant to the al dente vegetables and minimalist plating, governed by the proviso that taste is as important as presentation.
If the menu does not specify jus, don’t expect it. Descriptions of both the grilled beef fillet and lamb loin stated “jus” and I mistakenly assumed that a wine-rich jus would accompany my order of venison loin. The drizzle of sauce on the lamb, presumably cooked sous-vide (under vacuum) to achieve that mouth-melting consistency, was a poor substitute, similar in taste to that on my escort’s baby chicken.
That said, the fresh and crunchy al dente asparagus, focal point of my starter, made culinary music with olive toast, nut crush and parmesan snow. My escort feasted eyes and palate on a modern take on a high-rise gorgonzola soufflé, incorporating raspberries, biltong shavings and crushed hazelnuts.
Ending with a soft-centred hot chocolate fondant, the richness cut with orange ice-cream and bitter sugar brittle, I was amused to see banoffee – taking me back to midnight feasts in the dorm with its condensed milk content – listed as an ingredient in the banana parfait.
Later, chatting to PE-born executive chef Sam Wasserman, I uncovered the source of the unexpected Asian influence.
A year working in London involved an indelible stint at the Soho Hotel, rounded back home by experience at several luxury bush lodges and refined by two years at Le Quartier Francais.
Sam’s Dash menus mark further stepping stones in her skills.
She has the talent and ambition to get to the top: “I’ve always wanted to be the best at what I do.”