GO HUNGRY: you’ll be plied with plates of tasty, wholesome food at friendly prices. Expect mouth-watering steaks oozing flavour; simply prepared, straight-from-the-boat fish; hand-cut chips (with skin for added texture), and al dente roast vegetables, market-fresh and cooked for crunch. Plus alluring baked desserts as a finale. Not knowing the formula, we left clutching doggy bags; mine cradling their signature Lindt chocolate brownie.
This buzzing neighbourhood venue is run by Tony Mason (remember him from the Hardrock Café in Rondebosch?) who has perfected his recipe for success – while preserving the name of the building that houses the restaurant, which served the local community as “The Avenue Dairy” in 1931.
Crammed with memorabilia of classic cars and car paraphernalia, it’s just as packed with loyal customers who enjoy an unpretentious meal in a relaxed ambience. This despite defying superstition by opening on Friday 13th in July 2001. If you want to avoid queuing, book ahead.
Amiable host Tony – who claims to have learned his skills “the best way: making mistakes in other people’s kitchens”, brings tried and tested skills to the table. Mastering the basics at Spur, he took over Hardrock, and is still indulging his passion for steak.
This extends to all cuts of beef – but not lamb. For soft-hearted Tony adopted a sheep which, Beatrix Potter style, he named Sammy. It proved “cleverer than my Lab” and knew exactly where to find the dustbin. And no, it never visited the restaurant. “People might have got the wrong idea,’’ explains Tony. Though there’s slow-cooked Moroccan lamb on the menu, it’s not the family pet. Sammy has been honourably retired to a small and caring farm.
But should you crave steaks, this is the place. According to chef Tony, the quest for perfection starts with the ingredients. Some 37 years ago, he found a butcher who shared his passion, and today still hand-picks the finest cuts. These are then basted with the Mason Family Secret Recipe (don’t attempt to persuade Tony to part with it. You’re doomed to failure). He also doesn’t believe in trimming his selection, so whatever your order, what you find on your plate might be bigger, but never smaller than expected.
Don’t let me give the impression that this is “just a steakhouse”. Halaal-friendly, it uses Halaal-certified meat and chicken in the kitchens. And as Tony was once a vegan, he knows what it’s like to be faced with limited options. Vegetarian dishes on the menu include spring rolls, soy or halloumi burgers and succulent soy steaks. (For meat-loving burger fans, there’s a selection of gourmet burgers).
Starter platters cater to diverse palates and demand sharing. I indulged in sliver-thin ostrich carpaccio with honey-mustard dressing on a bed of fresh rocket; my cordon bleu friend delighted in sesame-encrusted fried halloumi pillowed on greens, offset by grilled baby tomatoes and tangy, spicy patha.
While she offered to do the honours on the steak front, I hoped that sea-bass would be on the menu, but sadly it hadn’t arrived that day. Instead, I decided to see what Tony would do with ubiquitous hake. Describing it as “an under-rated fish”, he advocated pepper sauce with my perfectly grilled portion. My tastebuds affronted, I chickened out, cravenly settling for lemon butter. But do try: the pepper sauce/hake pairing is a best-seller.
I compensated by sampling my friend’s butter-tender rib-eye, served rare as requested, and drooled. Judging by the satisfied silence at surrounding tables, this was the general reaction.
Not that silence is the norm. The Avenue is noisy. If you want quiet, there’s a room for private parties, or patrons who prefer peace. Instead of the cars that characterise The Avenue proper, this is hung with an elegant collection showcasing horses.
Despite the pressure, the welcome’s warm (Tony jokes that regulars no longer ask for him, preferring smiling front-of-house Prisca); service is smooth and speedy, with no sense of rush, and the wide-ranging winelist is exceptional for a neighbourhood venue.
l Starters from R34-R65; salads from R59-R85; fresh linefish and calamari R95 – R115; vegan and vegetarian dishes R59-R95; chicken from R85-R95; burgers from R59-R60 (sauces extra). Steaks (depending on size and cut) from R139 for 350g rump to R149 for rib-eye on the bone. Baked desserts round R38.