In a recent study, Holly Kane, as part of her Honours research at the University of Cape Town, delved into the complexities of regenerative agriculture (RA) practices within the wool value chain in the Karoo.
By focusing on commercial and communal farmers, trainers of regenerative agriculture techniques, and designers utilising wool in their products, Kane aimed to uncover the underlying motivations and barriers surrounding the adoption of RA.
“I have always been interested in the intersection of fashion and sustainability,” Kane told IOL.
“I read a news article which spoke about regeneratively farmed wool, and how it could be used to fight climate change. I later looked at the academic research on the subject, and was quite surprised to see how controversial it is.”
Opinions on regenerative agriculture vary widely, from claims of it being the ultimate solution to climate change, to criticisms stating it fails to sequester carbon effectively. Settling the debate is challenging due to limited research on the topic, as funding tends to prioritise research with commercial applications.
Despite this, regenerative agriculture is gaining popularity among farmers due to its cost-effectiveness, as it discourages the use of expensive machinery and inputs like pesticides.
“However,” Kane explains, “researching regenerative agriculture is complex due to differing definitions and practices, which vary from farm to farm based on individual contexts.”
Meanwhile, the fashion industry has embraced regenerative agriculture without fully understanding its controversies, overlooking other sustainable farming methods like conservation agriculture, permaculture, and agroforestry.
Key findings from the research revealed diverse motivations among stakeholders. Commercial farmers were primarily driven by the desire for improved resilience and environmental benefits, as well as industry pressure to provide sustainably certified wool.
Communal farmers cited a deep-rooted care for the land, alongside incentives such as access to markets, income from carbon credits, and better opportunities at auctions.
Designers, influenced by increasing consumer demand for sustainable products and personal ideals of environmental care, also showed a keen interest in regenerative wool farming.
However, the study also uncovered significant challenges and barriers hindering the widespread adoption of RA practices. A lack of knowledge and support, administrative burdens, and resistance to change were identified as key obstacles for farmers.
Additionally, financial considerations posed significant challenges, with transitioning to RA often involving new expenses and potential short-term financial setbacks. Furthermore, disconnects in the value chain, including limited traceability between farmers and their wool, and a lack of consumer awareness, further complicated the adoption process.
The research also highlighted points of controversy, particularly regarding the financial implications of transitioning to RA and the need for more comprehensive research in this field.
Critics raised concerns about the reductionist approaches used in existing studies and biases in funding towards industrial agriculture.
Kane's research underscored the influence of top-down decision-making processes, with pressure from the fashion industry and carbon market driving the adoption of RA practices, often without adequate support for farmers in transitioning.
Contextual considerations, including the historical legacy of apartheid and the role of consumer demand, were also acknowledged as significant factors shaping the landscape of regenerative wool farming in the Karoo.
In light of these findings, Kane emphasised the need for greater support and resources for farmers transitioning to RA, including financial incentives and knowledge sharing.
Hoping to see more conversations happening across the value chain within the industry, Kane said that the “current fashion industry separates farmers, designers and manufacturers. In order for there to be positive changes in the industry, we need to open up conversations between these stakeholders in order to promote traceability and reduce greenwashing.”
“I also hope that South Africa will start processing more of its own wool. Currently, 90% of our wool is exported, 80% of which goes to China. This represents a huge loss of potential income, and makes SA vulnerable to global market conditions.”
Efforts to ensure that RA initiatives genuinely benefit the environment and local communities, rather than serving as greenwashing tools, were deemed essential.
As South African farmers grapple with the challenges of sustainability within the agricultural sector, Kane's research provides valuable insights and recommendations for stakeholders across the wool value chain, hopefully paving the way for more informed decision-making and meaningful interventions in regenerative wool farming practices.
IOL Environment