Philippolis, Free State - If he were to be resurrected, what would Adam Kok of the Griquas think of his birthplace? He might nod approvingly, as the little town is unspoiled and charming.
Philippolis is named after the Rev John Philip, one time superintendent of the London Missionary Society, who tried to convert Kok.
An early morning walk around the town proved a delightful way to start the day. Many of the houses started off as typical flat-roofed Karoo ones, but some have been slightly embellished. All seemed to be dozing contentedly in the first rays of the sun.
Philippolis was also the birthplace of author Lourens van der Post. Although he died in the UK, his resting place is the town of his birth and the Laurens van der Post Memorial Garden is a place of tranquil beauty. Stone pillars rise out of a water feature beneath shady trees.
There is also a labyrinth.
Here, under the trees, I had a milkshake and cake at Siel’s Kos restaurant and let the atmosphere settle over me like a mantle.
The focal point of the town is the Dutch Reformed Church, with a lovely rose garden. It was built on a piece of land which once housed the Griqua Mission Church.
On the main street, Oom Japie se Huis is home to a gallery and fabulous bookshop with hundreds of books, both old and modern.
Most of the guest houses in the town have a facinating history. One is run by a retired school principal. Just outside Philippolis is the tiny settlement of Waterkloof, which came into being when a local farmer donated land for poor families to set up small plots. Some of these plots are now up for sale, preferably to environmentally-friendly owners.
The history of the town is inextricably woven with several famous people. In 1905 Emily Hobhouse, the woman who took the British to task for the manner in which they incarcerated women and children during the Anglo Boer War, set up a weaving school in Philippolis. It was to be the first of several throught the country. There is a memorial to her in the town.
As to Adam Kok’s house, dating back to 1843, and said to be the oldest in the town, it was decribed by Archdeacon Nathaniel James Merriman (in 1853) as having 650mm thick walls made of unfired bricks.
Now it is home to the Waenhuis Guest House. Its wagon house had two rooms which were used as a Jewish school during the Anglo Boer War.
Tomkins koppie, overlooking the town, was named after the officer who commanded the British troops which occupied the town during the war. For several days he and his men were cornered on this koppie by the Boers without food or water.
Prof Doreen Atkinson, who runs the Jacoba Sem Gallery in the town, along with Elaine Andrews, is a mine of information. Atkinson is attached to the University of the Free State, doing research on social and economic development, but spends a lot of time in Philippolis.
The gallery is in a fine Victorian house, built in 1872. Jacoba Sem, who was born in Holland, lived here between 1893 and 1899. Her husband Herman was a notable businessman who served on the town council.
Mrs Sem was said to be a fine musician who taught the locals to appreciate Beethoven, Brahms and other great masters. The family contributed much to the social life of the town.
Prof Atkinson said she came across the diary of one Gerrit Sem, which dealt with the Anglo Boer War. She has since turned this into a book relating some of the history of that turbulent time.
The former jail has been turned into self-catering accommodation. The town's museum is also located in a house full of atmosphere.
Starry Nights Karoo Cottages gives visitors a chance to stay in historical houses.
In the evening, only the main road has street lights. It was lovely to stroll around, before heading home to the Anker Guest House, where I overnighted. The owner, a naval man, was once based at Salisbury Island in Durban. Hence the name Anker (Anchor).
The bed was comfortable and the sound of rain falling on the tin roof provided the perfect lullaby.
Contacts: Jacoba Sem gallery 083 274 5461 or 082 507 4155. Anker Guest House 051-773 0008; Starry Nights 051-773 0063 or 082 892 4680.
Myrtle Ryan, Sunday Tribune